What Gear Do I Need To Take A Motorcycle Course?
So, you have decided that you want to learn how to ride a motorcycle, or re-learn how to ride a motorcycle after being away from the sport for a while? In addition, you had the foresight that you wanted to do so properly and in the safest way possible by registering for a recognized Motorcycle Training Program (MTP), such as the Gearing Up program as developed by the Canada Safety Council (CSC), and offered by such training organizations like the Ottawa Safety Council. Good for you! You have taken the smartest first step that one can take on their way to becoming a motorcyclist.
Why? The reasons are simple – the instructor / coaches in these programs are highly trained to a set standard and follow a curriculum that has been developed and fine-tuned over the years to best prepare a new rider entering the world of motorcycling, whether they are moving down the highway at speed, or controlling the motorcycle at extremely slow, parking lot speeds.
In preparation for taking this “hands-on” in the parking lot, “coney island” or the "Cone Zone" portion of the course, (yes, there is also a classroom component part to the course), you will have to come with proper gear to ride in that will meet at least the minimum standards of these courses. This gear does not have to be new, nor does it have to be dedicated motorcycle gear (except for the helmet), and all may be borrowed from someone else. However, no matter if you buy or borrow, there are some important things to keep in mind.
Let’s start from the top and work our way down and check out the kind of gear you will need to allow you to use on the course, especially those under CSC guidelines.
1. Helmet – It does not matter whether the helmet is full faced, open faced, bucket style, or modular, it must meet DOT, Snell, CSA D230, BSI, or ECE regulations. One, some, or all of these will be listed on the back of the helmet depending on the testing done on the helmet . If none of these are on the back of the helmet, it may be listed on the chin-strap (sewn on) or on the inner lid. A “sticker” placed on it does not qualify, and if the helmet has been kicked around before you got it (i.e. “my dad had this helmet when he learned how to ride”) you better get another helmet to use.
The chin-strap must also be in good condition and function to secure the helmet to your head. There should not be any protrusions or decorations on the helmet that could cause issues, such as spikes, horns, phony hair braids, etc.
As well, your eyes will have to be covered if you are not using a helmet with a face shield that will come down completely over the eyes. Goggles, your own prescription glasses, sun glasses or safety glasses you would use in a work shop will work just fine (if you are going to be taking the course in hot weather, or damp conditions and you have a full face helmet with a shield, it is recommended that you bring along glasses that you can wear because you will want to open up your face shield. If not, it will become really hot, really quick inside the helmet as most of the time you are not riding fast enough to have a good air flow in the helmet.
The helmet needs to fit snug enough that your head fits in it without the helmet moving all over the place (too large) or so tight that your cheeks, temples, and head feels like it is being tightly squeezed (too small). If you are buying a helmet, most motorcycle shops do a fitting for you, and will allow you to try the helmet for 5 – 10 minutes to see if it really is comfortable enough. If you wear glasses, or plan on wearing glasses, this is the time to have them on. If the helmet is not comfortable and giving you issues, you will lose concentration of what you should be focused on, and will spend that time trying to survive the discomforts caused by your improper fitting helmet.
Why? The reasons are simple – the instructor / coaches in these programs are highly trained to a set standard and follow a curriculum that has been developed and fine-tuned over the years to best prepare a new rider entering the world of motorcycling, whether they are moving down the highway at speed, or controlling the motorcycle at extremely slow, parking lot speeds.
In preparation for taking this “hands-on” in the parking lot, “coney island” or the "Cone Zone" portion of the course, (yes, there is also a classroom component part to the course), you will have to come with proper gear to ride in that will meet at least the minimum standards of these courses. This gear does not have to be new, nor does it have to be dedicated motorcycle gear (except for the helmet), and all may be borrowed from someone else. However, no matter if you buy or borrow, there are some important things to keep in mind.
Let’s start from the top and work our way down and check out the kind of gear you will need to allow you to use on the course, especially those under CSC guidelines.
1. Helmet – It does not matter whether the helmet is full faced, open faced, bucket style, or modular, it must meet DOT, Snell, CSA D230, BSI, or ECE regulations. One, some, or all of these will be listed on the back of the helmet depending on the testing done on the helmet . If none of these are on the back of the helmet, it may be listed on the chin-strap (sewn on) or on the inner lid. A “sticker” placed on it does not qualify, and if the helmet has been kicked around before you got it (i.e. “my dad had this helmet when he learned how to ride”) you better get another helmet to use.
The chin-strap must also be in good condition and function to secure the helmet to your head. There should not be any protrusions or decorations on the helmet that could cause issues, such as spikes, horns, phony hair braids, etc.
As well, your eyes will have to be covered if you are not using a helmet with a face shield that will come down completely over the eyes. Goggles, your own prescription glasses, sun glasses or safety glasses you would use in a work shop will work just fine (if you are going to be taking the course in hot weather, or damp conditions and you have a full face helmet with a shield, it is recommended that you bring along glasses that you can wear because you will want to open up your face shield. If not, it will become really hot, really quick inside the helmet as most of the time you are not riding fast enough to have a good air flow in the helmet.
The helmet needs to fit snug enough that your head fits in it without the helmet moving all over the place (too large) or so tight that your cheeks, temples, and head feels like it is being tightly squeezed (too small). If you are buying a helmet, most motorcycle shops do a fitting for you, and will allow you to try the helmet for 5 – 10 minutes to see if it really is comfortable enough. If you wear glasses, or plan on wearing glasses, this is the time to have them on. If the helmet is not comfortable and giving you issues, you will lose concentration of what you should be focused on, and will spend that time trying to survive the discomforts caused by your improper fitting helmet.
2. Jacket – The jacket or outer covering that you wear must be of a material that is strong enough to protect you from potential encounters of abrasion. In other words, coming in contact with the asphalt or gravel (have you ever heard the term “road rash”?). The jacket needs to be able to cover your upper body (torso) and arms completely (long sleeved). This leaves vests on the sidelines unless it is covering over an approved outer garment. It also has to be able to be completely zipped up, or buttoned up.
The material for the jacket can be made up of a number of different materials. Leather and man-made fabrics like Cordura (a brand name) or Kevlar are the best to have, but you can also do fine with denim, although it is on the low end of the protection scale, and the speeds that you will be training at are slower speeds generally so it will suffice. While it will offer protection against abrasion, it will not do so for long and offers nothing or very little against the effects of impact (such as hitting the ground from a tip-over. Whichever of these you decide, they will meet the standard necessary for the course.
Jackets made of polyester based materials, even though it might be “leather like” or “denim like” do not meet the requirements of the course. The polyester has a tendency to melt when abrasion happens, and it could be your skin that come in contact with the melted material.
In case of wet weather, you would be advised to take along a rain suit that will fit over your protective gear, so make sure it is large enough. A dedicated motorcycling rain suit is not necessary.
The material for the jacket can be made up of a number of different materials. Leather and man-made fabrics like Cordura (a brand name) or Kevlar are the best to have, but you can also do fine with denim, although it is on the low end of the protection scale, and the speeds that you will be training at are slower speeds generally so it will suffice. While it will offer protection against abrasion, it will not do so for long and offers nothing or very little against the effects of impact (such as hitting the ground from a tip-over. Whichever of these you decide, they will meet the standard necessary for the course.
Jackets made of polyester based materials, even though it might be “leather like” or “denim like” do not meet the requirements of the course. The polyester has a tendency to melt when abrasion happens, and it could be your skin that come in contact with the melted material.
In case of wet weather, you would be advised to take along a rain suit that will fit over your protective gear, so make sure it is large enough. A dedicated motorcycling rain suit is not necessary.
3. Pants – Yes, pants! No shorts or pants with designer or accidental holes in them. They must be devoid of rips and holes, and be sturdy enough to absorb abrasion. Why? Your bare skin offers 0% protection against asphalt abrasion. Denim (100%) again is very useful here, as is cotton (100%). Either is recommended. Pants with polyester is not acceptable due to the tendency of this material to melt and tear.
4. Boots – The boots you wear should be comfortable for the duration of the course, and not only has to cover your foot, but up to just past the ankle bone, as a minimum. The material covering your feet and ankle bones needs to be of a sturdy material, therefore the stretch material that a number of boots designer boots are made of is not acceptable as it offers very little in the way of protection. When in doubt, leather is better. Steel-toed work boots are OK as they offer plenty of protection, as long as the ankle is covered. The down sides of using steel-toed boots are the toe itself is usually quite big (thick), and that can make it hard to get your toe under the course bike shifter to change gears. As well, the steel toe can make it harder to “feel” the shifter and changing gears.
5. Gloves - Have you ever tripped and fallen down? If so, what is the first thing you do? You put your hands out to brace yourself for the fall. The same thing happens if you fall off the motorcycle. You will instinctively put your hands out. If they are not covered properly, you could become the subject of a bad case of road rash on your hands. The gloves you are wearing will go along way to insuring that your motorcycle experience is a good one. The gloves should fit comfortably and not be too big (bunching up of the palm to the handlebar grip or finger tips so long they interfere with lever use, or too small as to cause you discomfort and take your mind away from the bike operations. The gloves should have a leather palm as this will dispense heat build up caused by abrasion best, without tearing all the way through or melting, or burning your hands. If you don't have dedicated motorcycle gloves, many work gloves that can be purchased at the hardware store will work just fine. In addition, the gloves need to be full-fingered, not open fingers!
The main issues with gloves are that they be made of material that is not prone to ripping apart or melting, such as polyester. Did I mention leather is better, especially in the palms? Hint hint!
The main issues with gloves are that they be made of material that is not prone to ripping apart or melting, such as polyester. Did I mention leather is better, especially in the palms? Hint hint!
The following gloves are not acceptable, either because they do not cover the hand properly, are open fingered, not made of material that will handle abrasion, or are too short and expose the wrists and / or part of the hand.The main issues with gloves are that they be made of material that is not prone to ripping apart or melting, such as polyester. Did I mention leather is better, especially in the palms? Hint hint!
Please be aware of what some would refer to as “Casual” or Designer” Gear. If you wish to buy these items, please check the standards list that the course requires before the purchase. Check the garment to see what it is made of (remember, polyester, or polyester type materials, for most courses is not allowed). You can also go on-line and check the manufacturer. Some of the designer or motorcycle clothes made to look like regular clothes may have pads on the shoulders, and/or elbows, and / or back. However, if the material holding them in place is very thin or slight stitching, they unfortunately cannot be used. If you wish to wear them after you have taken the course, by all means feel free to do so. The gear you decide to purchase and wear is of your own personal choice, but please respect the standards of these motorcycle courses that they are evaluating and training for the course as set out. Some of the instructors / coaches may even have some of the same items not acceptable for the course, but worn by them outside course parameters.
Last but not least, because you are savvy enough to take a registered and recognized course, learn as much as you can, enjoy the experience, and have fun doing it. It's all part of learning to Ride Skilled - Ride Smart - Ride Safe!
Last but not least, because you are savvy enough to take a registered and recognized course, learn as much as you can, enjoy the experience, and have fun doing it. It's all part of learning to Ride Skilled - Ride Smart - Ride Safe!